Bulgaria
2 Days in Central Bulgaria: Thracian Culture, History & Hidden Gem
This trip was long overdue to our neighboring country. After visiting the most well-known parts of Bulgaria such as Bansko, Sofia, and the Black Sea coastline, it was time to go a little deeper and explore more.
DAY 1
Shipka Pass
Bucharest
Started our ride with a healthy homemade breakfast and a downstairs coffee at Mates. The luggage was all set, the sun was rising, so everything was aligned for our trip.
Giurgiu to Ruse
An hour later we found ourselves in the well-known jam crossing the Bridge of Friendship between Romania and Bulgaria, where on the Bulgarian side constructions had been in progress for months. Since we were outside the holiday season, the whole thing took just 15 minutes.
Dryanovo Monastery
Finally we reached our first stop on the tour, the perfect combo of architecture and nature. After visiting the monastery, we hiked to Bacho Kiro Cave where bats flew left and right over our heads, to Clara’s delight. We also climbed to higher ground for a panoramic view of the valley at the Bench of Love. Tip: have cash for parking and cave entrance.
Ethnographic Museum Etar
Near Etar village, about half an hour from our previous stop, lies an entire complex showcasing Bulgarian heritage on the Sivek River valley. Here you can spend hours learning history or exploring shops with local products. We ended the visit with a traditional meal at their restaurant. Parking: 2 BGN cash.
Monument of Freedom, Saint Nicholas
With a tight timeframe, we still managed to climb all the way to the top, a total of 894 steps across 7 floors, to enjoy some incredible views and a deep dive into the history of the place.
Shipka Memorial Church
Only 16 km south lies a beautiful orthodox Russian church, a must-see in the area. From my perspective, the exterior is more impressive than the interior. The front bell tower was built in Russian Revival style to honor Russian soldiers of the Russo-Turkish War.
Tomb of Seuthes III
Across the E85 main road lies probably the most important Thracian site in Bulgaria. The visit was short, but the setup was immersive with three chambers. Last entrance was at 17:00, so check the schedule in advance. We also visited the nearby Archaeological Complex “Valley of the Thracian Kings,” where a passionate guide shared stories about Thracian history.
Buzludzha Monument
Classified as a communist ruin, we couldn’t miss the UFO-like building standing on Hadzhi Dimitar Peak. The place gives you chills as you climb the stairs, and depending on the wind direction the gusts can be quite strong, so be prepared.
Karlovo
Excited that we covered all our planned stops, we headed to Karlovo for the night. After checking in, we discovered a traditional music event along with a bike fest in progress. We enjoyed dinner at Karlovo Restaurant downtown before ending the night with traditional music at the main stage nearby.
DAY 2
Troyan Pass (Beklemeto)
Karlovo
After a well-deserved rest, we were ready for another round. Since most places were closed, we took a walk near the city center. Across our place we checked the “Vasil Levski” Museum, then continued through the up-and-down streets until we found a place to eat.
Suchurum Waterfall
After breakfast and covering the center, we headed up to the waterfall. The route shifts from a pedestrian path to a fully tree-covered walk. To fully enjoy the view, we went under the bridge for some nice shots, and Clara eagerly tested her balance by crossing the water on slippery rocks.
Monument “Arch of Freedom”
Parking by the roadside was pretty full, so we decided to head up even though the road was steep. About 200–300 m away there was another parking spot where we left the car (you could continue to the top, but the road was full of potholes). From there we walked to the top and enjoyed breathtaking views of the surroundings.
Troyan City
Being the weekend, festivities were on and the city center hosted a fair with vendors, perfect for a quick lunch or souvenirs. We made a short stop at the Museum of Folk Arts and Crafts, then ate at “In the Courtyard,” a really nice, cozy place.
Lovech City
Even though we arrived late, we still visited the Covered Bridge in the center. Then we drove a narrow road up to the Old Fortress, whose entrance is flanked by the mighty Monument of Hierodeacon Vasil Ivanov Kunchev – Levski. We caught sunset colors for some exquisite shots.
Devetashka Cave
Our final stop before heading home, one of the most spectacular caves in Bulgaria and among the best I’ve visited. With an entrance over 35 m high and 60 m wide, it feels like stepping into another world, the world of bats, where in any minute you’re expecting Batman to launch with his Batwing. Visiting at sunset with less light gave us chills, especially as the bats revived and flew across the cave. A must-see for sure.
OVERVIEW
DRIVE
765 km
TRAVEL TIME
2 Days
WALK
26 km
SHOTS TAKEN
820 Shots
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